If there was a contest, I vote
Montreal's Chinatown(s) to be the
worst Chinatown in North America. For a city this size, Montreal's Asian quarters are sad, especially for the
sizeable East Asian population. The Asian supermarkets are overpriced, variety stinks and quality is meh, at best.
Take for example, the sorry state of
shiitake mushroom selection in this city.
This is what you get at the local
Loblaws chain (which also owns the
T&T Supermarket chain):
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| [These shiitake mushrooms have an extra "i". Also, not much far off from the ones in our Azn groceries, but still...] |
You can fool
gweilo, but you can't fool a discerning Chinese glutton like me; calling that shiitake mushrooms is like calling
Coors Lite "beer". Recommended use for these ones: chopped up in dumpling filling. I don't need to see that poppycock served to me.
And then there's what you can get, for example, in butt[expletive] suburbia from a random Asian grocery store in
Markham, Ontario where
Asian malls outnumber Tim Hortons franchises:
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[Shiitake with distinctive crackles. Crackles on mushrooms are what sprinkles are to cupcakes.]
|
In Chinese cooking, the most revered grades of
shiitake are winter mushrooms (
dong gu)
冬菇, fragrant mushroom (
heong gu)
香菇, and white flower mushroom (
bak fah gu)
白花菇.
The quality of these mushrooms depend on the season, temperature in which they're grown, humidity, pH levels of the growing medium (often just tree trunks or logs), and all that junk. Winter versions are obviously cultivated in winter when the humidity is lower which helps create the crackled patterns on the cap, and produce meatier caps... mmm meaty.
As you can see from above, there's a discernible difference between good and not so good (usually prices will be a good indicator), which I have outlined below:
NOT SO GOOD
- Very dark cap and stems
- Little or no floral pattern
- Small, wrinkled caps
- Dense
- Thin caps
- Long stems
- Dark gills
GOOD
- Light in colour
- Pronounced floral pattern on cap
- Light in weight
- Large caps
- Thick caps
- Shorter stems
- Delicate-looking
- Pale-coloured gills
Connoisseurs recommend rehydrating dried shiitake in cold (not hot or boiling) water, as hot water will likely "destroy the flavour". I say, "
Be a man; do the right thing," but that's just me.
If you're lucky enough to have access to fresh ones (home-grown or in store), you'll probably appreciate the delicate umami flavours more than the dried ones might lack; nonetheless, you should still look for fresh ones that exhibit similar qualities.
(
Treehugger posted a step-by-step
article on growing shiitake on oak logs. Or you can buy one of these
shiitake growing kits from Amazon and have the most disgusting-looking centerpiece in your neighbourhood!)